Difference between revisions of "Sun Tracker or Irrigation Timer to drive motors"
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| − | ALL MY PROJECTS ARE HERE: | + | ALL MY PROJECTS ARE HERE: https://opencircuits.com/index.php?title=User:Definitionofis |
This is using two LEDs to sense the sun and send +- or -+ logic signals to a full bridge motor driver like L298 or http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm LED3X schematic. I bought his. I recommend it. | This is using two LEDs to sense the sun and send +- or -+ logic signals to a full bridge motor driver like L298 or http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm LED3X schematic. I bought his. I recommend it. | ||
| − | I changed the front end logic to 4060 and 4011 ICs here, because I want to put the sun sensor separate from the controller board so it does not weather and die again, after 8 years of use. The circuit turns on a motor for 3 seconds once every 47 seconds to move the solar panels. You could use this circuit to turn on an irrigation motor for a very short time every several hours (just | + | I changed the front end logic to 4060 and 4011 ICs here, because I want to put the sun sensor separate from the controller board so it does not weather and die again, after 8 years of use. The circuit turns on a motor for 3 seconds once every 47 seconds to move the solar panels. You could use this circuit to turn on an irrigation motor for a very short time every several hours (just cut the sun sensor output, resulting in the motor driver never reversing polarity, and select different timing pins of the 4060IC, since 3 seconds ON, every 47 seconds is not long enough for irrigation, which should be more like 15 minutes ON, every 48 hours). |
| − | [Update: | + | [Update: Jan 1, 2022. This board has been in use for 5 years and it is reliable. I had another car battery go weak after five years, so I returned the ten year-old battery and kept the "new" dead car battery. It parks the solar rotator back to sunrise position reliably every night. Dec 2018: I plugged in the wall adaptor because the battery died, but the solar is providing current during daylight and the wall adaptor, which is buck-controller, |
| + | and not a transformer, typical of these modern day adaptors | ||
| + | so it doesn't seem to care as long as it's voltage is the same.] | ||
| + | Zener D3 went open circuit, malfunctioned and raised all the | ||
| + | voltages from 5v to 15v. So I am going to replace that with | ||
| + | a 270 ohm resistor. I guess my zener could not handle 30mA. | ||
| + | I pulled a random one out of an old VCR. | ||
| + | [[File:Irrigation_Timer_Sun_Tracker_photo_of.png]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | This needs upgrading but I get an error trying to replace the file: | ||
[[File:Irrigation_Timer_Sun_Tracker_motor_driver.sch]] | [[File:Irrigation_Timer_Sun_Tracker_motor_driver.sch]] | ||
| Line 23: | Line 32: | ||
[[File:DC_Solar_to_15vdc+trickle_charge.kicad_pcb]] | [[File:DC_Solar_to_15vdc+trickle_charge.kicad_pcb]] | ||
[[File:DC_Solar_to_15vdc+trickle_charge.sch]] | [[File:DC_Solar_to_15vdc+trickle_charge.sch]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | Why is that R4 15 ohm resistor in there? Here I am 5 years later trying to remember why, since it is not necessary, except I remember the current regulator was dropping a small voltage across itself and the final charge on the battery was thus less than 100% capacity; maybe 70%. So the 15 ohm resistor is so huge that for example: 1/2 volt results in a 1/30A trickle to top up the final charge on the battery to something higher by 1/2v than what the current regulator can do because it loses some voltage across itself. If my voltage regulator was 1/2v higher it might have been better for my lead-acid battery and then I could have left out the 15 ohm cheat, for top up trickle charge to a final voltage closer to the voltage regulator output voltage than the current regulator's output voltage. | ||
Latest revision as of 05:33, 1 January 2022
ALL MY PROJECTS ARE HERE: https://opencircuits.com/index.php?title=User:Definitionofis
This is using two LEDs to sense the sun and send +- or -+ logic signals to a full bridge motor driver like L298 or http://www.redrok.com/led3xassm.htm LED3X schematic. I bought his. I recommend it.
I changed the front end logic to 4060 and 4011 ICs here, because I want to put the sun sensor separate from the controller board so it does not weather and die again, after 8 years of use. The circuit turns on a motor for 3 seconds once every 47 seconds to move the solar panels. You could use this circuit to turn on an irrigation motor for a very short time every several hours (just cut the sun sensor output, resulting in the motor driver never reversing polarity, and select different timing pins of the 4060IC, since 3 seconds ON, every 47 seconds is not long enough for irrigation, which should be more like 15 minutes ON, every 48 hours). [Update: Jan 1, 2022. This board has been in use for 5 years and it is reliable. I had another car battery go weak after five years, so I returned the ten year-old battery and kept the "new" dead car battery. It parks the solar rotator back to sunrise position reliably every night. Dec 2018: I plugged in the wall adaptor because the battery died, but the solar is providing current during daylight and the wall adaptor, which is buck-controller, and not a transformer, typical of these modern day adaptors so it doesn't seem to care as long as it's voltage is the same.] Zener D3 went open circuit, malfunctioned and raised all the voltages from 5v to 15v. So I am going to replace that with a 270 ohm resistor. I guess my zener could not handle 30mA. I pulled a random one out of an old VCR.
This needs upgrading but I get an error trying to replace the file: File:Irrigation Timer Sun Tracker motor driver.sch
File:Irrigation Timer Sun Tracker motor driver.kicad pcb
I also made a simple trickle charger (below) and voltage-reduction circuit to power my motors and above circuit directly from the solar panels instead of plugging them into a wall outlet DC power supply. I am using an almost dead car battery.
File:DC Solar to 15vdc+trickle charge.kicad pcb File:DC Solar to 15vdc+trickle charge.sch
Why is that R4 15 ohm resistor in there? Here I am 5 years later trying to remember why, since it is not necessary, except I remember the current regulator was dropping a small voltage across itself and the final charge on the battery was thus less than 100% capacity; maybe 70%. So the 15 ohm resistor is so huge that for example: 1/2 volt results in a 1/30A trickle to top up the final charge on the battery to something higher by 1/2v than what the current regulator can do because it loses some voltage across itself. If my voltage regulator was 1/2v higher it might have been better for my lead-acid battery and then I could have left out the 15 ohm cheat, for top up trickle charge to a final voltage closer to the voltage regulator output voltage than the current regulator's output voltage.
