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	<updated>2026-08-28T12:44:03Z</updated>
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		<id>http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=24%22_Wall_Clock&amp;diff=7658</id>
		<title>24&quot; Wall Clock</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=24%22_Wall_Clock&amp;diff=7658"/>
		<updated>2007-09-06T17:36:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;69.147.76.102: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{| align=right&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| &lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Sign light Three 400x400.jpg|Light Sticks]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
===Power Regulation===&lt;br /&gt;
Quick math : Each stick is 3 LEDs. Each Piranha LED is 20mA according to the website (I don't trust the Hong Kong Website very much, but we'll assume). So each stick is 12V @ 60mA. 50 sticks * 60mA = 3A @ 12V. This is a bit juicy for a wall-wart. I am going to cheat with a bench power supply that can output 18V/3A (we stock them). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3A is really the worst case scenario.  We only have 48 sticks (not 50) and 10:08 seems to be the real time with the most number of segments lit (44 sticks turned on). We obviously should never see a time of 18:88. At 10:08 we'll need 44 * 60mA = 2640mA = 2.6A. Not too horrendous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board will need some power as well. 5V for logic, 3.3V for GPS. But the overall consumption will be peanuts compare to the lighting. Probably under 50mA for the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Clock Control===&lt;br /&gt;
Who wants to set the real time when we've got GPS to set it for us?! :) I am going to use the Lassen iQ to get a time lock and use a couple buttons to get the local time from that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We need to control 23 channels &amp;lt;b&amp;gt;18:88&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;:&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; has two segments, but the entire number is either on or off&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; is always on, but we may way to flash it for seconds&lt;br /&gt;
*&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;888&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt; 21 channels&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided on 25 channels just in case I need some extra [[http://www.bullshitjob.com/officespace/ 'flare']]. Perhaps an alarm of sorts. 'Beer Time' alarm at 4:30pm? We've got to keep our options open...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The need for 25 I/O pushed me towards the PIC 16F877A:&lt;br /&gt;
*Easy to program (I've got a big code base)&lt;br /&gt;
*Has enough I/O&lt;br /&gt;
*It can be bootloaded!&lt;br /&gt;
*It's got an RTC (when you add an external 32.768kHz xtal)&lt;br /&gt;
*UART to read the incoming GPS NMEA from Lassen iQ&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ToDo : It's possible to reduce the number of channels by multiplexing. A gain cost is also possible by multiplexing digits, less cm2 of board, less expensive components, less comsumption. 7 segments x 4 digits (remenber the 24:00 time format from 00:00 to 23:59) = 4 channels for digits and 7 channels for segments = 13 wires + 1 for &amp;quot;:&amp;quot; + 4 for extensions = 18 wires. Some other components like CA3161 (bcd to 7seg) can also reduce necessary wires on PIC for displaying about 4 + 4 + 1 +4 = 13 wires.&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Light Control===&lt;br /&gt;
Well if the PIC 16F877A has got the timing and control down, how exactly do we turn on/off the light stick?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since the sticks only pull 60mA, we can use cheap BJT transistors. Let's go solid state! Many itty-bitty SOT-23 SMD BJTs can handle up to 1A with a max input of 40V. The maximum power output is 350mW though. Luckily, when forward biased, the MMBT2222 has around 0.5V drop. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So 60mA with 0.5V drop, we are looking at 30mW dissapation. That's atleast in theory. I'll believe it when I see it of course. For the time being, I'm going to assume this will work...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All I need is an NPN BJT for each channel:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock-Channel.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While this should work, it's going to leave a bunch of connections with one pin 'hot'. A better design would probably utilize a PNP connected to RAW. Ehh - no big deal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you're planning to use a beefy light source, like Neon or super powerful LEDs, you could easily use the same setup to control a relay. [[Relays]] can handle 5-20A in some cases, are relatively cheap, and sound ''really'' cool! The only problem is they are big. And for this project, we wanted a relatively small control board. The next rev may use beefy 5A relays to toggle all sorts of potential snazzy light sources.&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
===Board Layout===&lt;br /&gt;
The PIC is connected to 25 channels, the GPS, a couple buttons, and a status LED. Here's the current layout in all its random glory:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Clock-Layout.jpg|500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can see it's a bit dense, but the polarized two-pin connectors should make it easy to attach the light sticks. Everything was SMD to ease the assembly as much as possible. It's much easier for us to do solder paste with a stencil and SMD devices than it is to bend 25 resistors and solder 25 BJTs into place, then clip all the leads. PTH is actually pretty time consuming. I digress...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a switch to multiplex the PIC's RX UART inbetween Debugging and listening to the GPS unit. Be sure to use Port 2 on the Lassen iQ if you want NMEA output (4800bps by default).&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Things to Improve===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nothing at the moment. We have to wait for all the parts to come in. Should be about 4 weeks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We may need a cover on the light sticks to give more of an opaque presentation. TBD.&lt;br /&gt;
----&lt;br /&gt;
===Documents===&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:SFE-Wall-Clock.pdf|SFE Wall Clock Main Board Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:SFE-Wall-Clock-Channels.pdf|Channel Control Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Footprints:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[SFE_Footprint_Library|SFE Footprint Library]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FP Name: All sorts of FPs used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Supplier Info:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;b&amp;gt;Related Items:&amp;lt;/b&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Projects]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>69.147.76.102</name></author>
		
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=POV_display&amp;diff=7650</id>
		<title>POV display</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.opencircuits.com/index.php?title=POV_display&amp;diff=7650"/>
		<updated>2007-09-06T17:10:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;69.147.76.102: &lt;/p&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
A &amp;quot;persistence of vision display&amp;quot; (POV display) has only a single line of LEDs blinking on and off.&lt;br /&gt;
The display mechanically sweeps it across a person's field of view,&lt;br /&gt;
giving the illusion of a 2D display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
''(Do I need a diagram or a picture here?)''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Nearly all LED displays in microwave ovens and alarm clocks electrically sweep the digits across a person's field of view, giving the illusion that it's displaying all 4 digits of the time &amp;quot;12:55&amp;quot; when actually only one digit is illuminated at any one instant).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[User:DavidCary]] is building yet another &amp;quot;POV display&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I plan on putting a few features into my display that I haven't seen in any other so far:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* bright blue LEDs (even though blue is usually the most expensive color ... although sometimes &amp;quot;true green&amp;quot; is even more expensive than blue).&lt;br /&gt;
* no slip rings -- just pumping energy across an air gap&lt;br /&gt;
* ... and a few other features that I'm keeping hush-hush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I want lots of lumens.&lt;br /&gt;
Unfortunately, when I go to pick LEDs out of the catalogs, they're not&lt;br /&gt;
rated in lumens, they're rated in candelas.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Is it even possible to estimate &amp;quot;lumens&amp;quot; from the catalog information?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Do you know what the difference is? Does your flashlight really&lt;br /&gt;
produce 10 times the light ( in lumens)? Or does the flashlight merely&lt;br /&gt;
focus its light on a tiny spot, so that that spot gets 10 times as&lt;br /&gt;
many candelas ?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example, check out these 2 LEDs:&lt;br /&gt;
$8.75 SSP-LX6144C7UC : 4000 mcd at 120 mA&lt;br /&gt;
$8.75 SSP-LX6144D7UC : 1800 mcd at 120 mA&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From the mcd rating, it appears that the first one is more than 2wice&lt;br /&gt;
as bright -- and it is, if you're directly in front of it when you&lt;br /&gt;
look at it.&lt;br /&gt;
However, if you're even the tiniest bit off-center, the second one is&lt;br /&gt;
much brighter -- in fact, the total lumens that second LED puts out&lt;br /&gt;
(2500 mlm) is slightly more than the total lumens than the first one.&lt;br /&gt;
If you diffuse the light and try to light up a whole room with an&lt;br /&gt;
array of them, the second one will make the room brighter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I'm currently planning on using these in my first POV display:&lt;br /&gt;
* $1.32 Telux TLWB7900 : blue : 330 mlm, 231 mcd at 50 mA. (price in ones from http://Newark.com/ )&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other LEDs I considered using in my POV display (and may re-consider for my next one):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* $18.89 &amp;quot;Lamina light engine&amp;quot; BL-22B1-0140 : 22000 mlm at 420 mA. (this price includes the required heat sink -- price in ones from http://Digikey.com/ ). This has the most lumens per dollar I've found so far (for blue LEDs).&lt;br /&gt;
* $8.750 Sunbrite LuxLEDs SSP-LX6144D7UC blue: 120 mA, 2500 mlm, 1800 mcd (Odd that the red Sunbrite LuxLEDs are cheaper at Newark, the other colors cheaper at Digikey.) cheapest $/lumen blue LED, except for the &amp;quot;light engine&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
* $2.550 Lumex &amp;quot;DSP LED&amp;quot; 67-1876-ND: blue, 5 mm, 2500 mcd ( DigiKey ) apparently have some kind of internal chip. All colors run at 2.0 V nominal (1.5 V minimum) (rather than running on current like most LEDs. unfortunately, the data sheet doesn't suggest how much current they take -- I presume more than 20 mA).&lt;br /&gt;
* $1.600 Sunbrite &amp;quot;based LED&amp;quot; SSP-01TWB7UWB12 (441-1007-ND) blue 10 mm 20 mA 7000 mcd&lt;br /&gt;
* $5.980 GM5WA06270A SMT RGB (35 mA red, 35 mA green, 35 mA blue) 3000 mcd (full color range -- apparently used for digital camera flash ?) (Digikey)&lt;br /&gt;
* Mouser: hi-power LEDs ( http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=LEDs hi-power ) shows &amp;quot;lumens&amp;quot; directly -- exactly what I wanted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This webpage loads very fast&lt;br /&gt;
What hosting provider do you use? &lt;br /&gt;
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